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Only those who have accomplished both Phase 1 and 2 of the confirmation process shall be deemed eligible for enrollment. Now the PCV system is disconnected, and you can easily remove the valve covers.

Remove both valve covers and set them aside. Using an 8mm socket, unbolt the center bolt that goes through each rocker arm. There are 16 of them, 8 on each side of the motor.

It will take a bit of force to break the bolts free at first, so be VERY careful and make sure the socket is on the bolt head tightly or you'll risk rounding it off.

Once you remove each bolt you can pull the rocker out along with the bolt and set them aside. Once all the rockers are out, pull out all the pushrods, and remove the rocker pedestal rail.

Next, grab a 15mm wrench and place it on the belt tensioner bolt as shown in the pic. Compress the tensioner by applying force on the wrench and slide the belt off of any pulley the water pump is usually easy to slide the belt off of and release the tensioner slowly.

Remove the belt and set it aside. Now things start to get a little messy. Using a pair of pliers, compress and slide the spring clamps off the 4 hoses that go to the water pump.

There will be 2 smaller hoses going into the passenger side of the pump, 1 big one going to the passenger side of the pump, and one big one going in towards the center of the water pump.

Once the clamps are all slid back some, pull or pry using a large flathead screwdriver the hoses off the pump. There are also 2 very small hoses going to the fill neck on the radiator.

Unclamp those at the radiator and leave the other end connected. Coolant will most likely start pouring out of some of these hoses.

You can try to catch some of it in a bucket but I usually just let it hit the ground. Now, there are 6 10mm bolts that hold the water pump to the block, 3 on each side.

See diagram of the pump on the left for their locations. Unbolt all 6 bolts and remove the water pump from the car.

Coolant again will start leaking once you loosen all the bolts, it's inevitable. Don't worry about it. If you have a power steering cooler inline in your upper radiator hose, go ahead and disconnect the radiator end of that hose from the radiator, and we'll leave the whole hose in the engine bay for the rest of the install so we don't have to mess with those power steering lines.

Now, this part is tricky. We need to remove the radiator. First, get under the car with a small flathead screwdriver and unclip both fan electrical connectors using the flathead screwdriver, as it's nearly impossible to do with your fingers.

While you are under there, also unclip all the plastic wiring rings holding the wiring harness to the fan shroud.

You're all done under here, go ahead and get back up to the top of the engine bay and get a friend to help with the next part. Loosen the AC drier clamp and lift the drier up a little bit out of the holder.

Make SURE the drier can doesn't touch any leads on the battery I recommend covering the battery terminals with a towel.

Now, you have a big assembly here We need to slide the AC condenser UP about 2 inches to dislodge the tabs and get the radiator free from its grasp.

This will take some cursing and a good light source so you can see the 4 slide in tabs I'm talking about. Once the AC condenser is loose from the radiator, both of you need to lift the radiator up and out.

Lifting the radiator up and out This part can sometimes be frustrating, so be patient. While trying to remove the radiator, you'll need to make sure that on the drivers side you don't catch on the AC condenser hard lines.

The large coolant hose will want to snag on things. The AC condenser will stay in the car for the whole install.

On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in.

You can leave the wires attached. Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley.

You may need a foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand.

Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.

Now install your 3 arm pulley puller, mounting the hooks of the three arms on the inner part of the stock pulley. If you already have an underdrive pulley on there, either pull it off using a 3 screw type puller, or be VERY careful and grab onto a lip of the underdrive pulley on the f-body ASP pulley there is a ridge half way back that can be pulled on safely with a 3 arm puller.

Keeping the pulley puller arms all secure and aligned, begin to tighten the bolt on the puller and crank on it until the pulley either comes loose, or hits the head of your crank bolt.

If it hits the head of your crankbolt, loosen the pulley puller, unturn the bolt turns, and re-try it again. The key when you back your crank bolt out more, you are putting MORE stress on less and less of the threads If you get the pulley as far off as it'll come without totally removing the crankbolt and the pulley is still firmly on there, give it a good tug or a tap with a rubber mallet If you have the longer crank bolt, this won't be an issue.

Next, we'll unbolt the timing cover. There are 10 bolts holding the timing cover to the engine, 8 on the front, and 2 on the bottom front of the motor.

Remove all 10 10mm bolts. Remove the timing cover once all bolts are out Once the timing cover is removed, you can see into the oil pan. If you drop anything into the oil pan, you may have a nightmare situation on your hands so take the time right now and stuff a clean small towel into the front lip of the oil pan just in case you drop a bolt later.

Removing the cam Time To Complete: The big gear you see is the gear mounted to the end of the camshaft and is held on by 3 10mm bolts.

The chain is of course the timing chain, and the big metal block at the bottom is the oil pump. Unbolt the 3 cam gear bolts and remove the gear, letting the chain droop down into the oil pan for now.

Thread 1 or 2 of the water pump bolts into the front of the cam and then spin the cam several times both directions with a quick snap of the wrist.

Unbolt the cam retainer plate that is held on with 4 10mm bolts and remove it. You'll need to buy the JPR Cam install tool available from.

If you have these, it'll make this a no sweat operation. To install them, you simply slide them into the 2 holes in the front of the motor.

The one marked "L" goes in on the passengers side of the motor, and the one marked "R" goes on the drivers side of the engine.

The tool head will face up and outward as shown in the image. If it seems the tools are tough to get in, try spinning the cam a couple more times and slowly sliding the tool in.

Once both are in, the lifters are locked into place making it impossible for them to fall! Once you have the magnets, extend the magnet about 6" and put it down the pushrod holes in the head.

You should feel it 'snap' onto the lifter and at that point you should be able to push the lifter up and down.

Rotate the cam some while doing this so you can understand how this works. The lifter rides on the cam, so you need to make sure by spinning the cam that the lifter is UP away from the cam.

The magnet is there to help the lifter stay up, so you need to squish the retractable part down and bend the pocket hook on the pen magnet outwards some to grab on to the head.

Hooking the pocket hook onto the bolt hole for the rocker arm bolt usually works well. Install all 16 magnets to hold up all the lifters.

Now, spin the cam and if ANY of your pen magnets move when you do this, then that lifter is hanging down too low. Use the magnet and spin the cam to hold the lifter up higher.

Option 3 Russian roulette method Now, this method has been in use for years and requires no magnets or special tools, however, it is prone to disaster.

Below the LS1 cylinder head, there is a plastic "lifter cup", and when you spin the camshaft the lifters go up deeper into the plastic holder and friction alone keeps them from falling back down.

I personally have done cams using this method and I never had an issue, however, on the 10th cam I tried to do there were 2 lifters that quite simply just wouldn't stay up.

That is when the magnet method or the JPR method become necessary, not just recommended. Basically, all you do is spin the cam a few times and that's it.

Turn off any bass coming out of your speakers, hope there is no thunder or earthquakes, and say your prayers. If a lifter falls, don't say I didn't warn you, I don't care how many buddies you know that have done a cam swap this way.

Let's pull it out! Grip the bolts on the end of the cam, and gently start pulling the cam out while trying to keep it supported and level with the bolts.

The key here is to be gentle with this part. The cam will need to be slowly spun as you are removing it. You need to envision what is going on inside the motor, your cam is basically going through a few holes that suspend it.

Once you pull the cam out a bit, it's going to drop down some and the lobes are going to be getting caught on the cam bearings in those holes, which is where the gentle spinning and tugging comes into play.

Whatever you do, don't force the cam if it feels like it's caught, just keep turning until it wants to naturally slide out more with gentle force.

Once you support the cam with two hands you'll see it's much easier to remove as it's not getting caught on everything inside.

If you do not have a buddy handy, you can use a bungee cord to tie the condenser up and tether it to the hood latch. Move it up until you have just enough room to pull the cam out totally and set it aside.

Note that the AC condenser lines are not designed to flex TOO much so only move it up out of the way as far as you need to for the cam to be removed.

Another method that may work just as well is rather than lifting the condenser up out of the way, you can drop it down towards the ground instead.

Whichever method you use, the key is to put as little stress on the metal AC lines as possible. Now, pull the last bit of the cam out and set it aside.

Optional Now, if you are the curious type, you may want to measure the base circle of your new cam before you install it.

If you have a vernier caliper, place it on one of the lobes and compress the caliper with your hand. Spin the cam slowly until you find the lowest number the caliper ever reads.

This is approximately your base circle. Yours will probably be somewhere between 1. It may also be a good idea to measure the stock base circle just to compare.

The new cam should have a smaller base circle. End of optional section Now we need to prep the new camshaft. If you have some wet towels or brake cleaner, clean the cam.

Try to get inside the center of the camshaft it's hollow to get any gunk out of there. Some cams come very filthy from the vendors, some come very clean.

It's always a good idea to check. Now, grab some fresh motor oil and pour it onto the new cam. Get everything coated nicely. Remove the water pump bolts from your stock cam and thread them into your new cam.

You have to try and support the cam and keep it level to get it up into the last hole inside the engine. Just keep turning it, lifting it, and wiggling it in and eventually it'll go right in.

Once in, re-install the cam retainer plate and its 4 10mm bolts. First, unbolt the 4 10mm bolts holding the oil pump to the engine block, making sure not to drop any into the oil pan.

Now we need to unbolt the oil pan to lower it some. It is held on by 8 or 10 bolts around the perimeter, some M8 and some M10 mm hex head bolts. It may need some prying to break it free at first.

Next, grab a 10mm wrench and unbolt the pickup tube bolt Then once it's loose, unthread it and remove it with your fingers making sure not to drop the bolt into the oil pan.

Now grab the pump with one hand and with your other hand or a screwdriver, push the pickup tube downwards into the oil pump to separate it from the pump.

Once it's separated, pull the pump off the front of the engine crankshaft. You can now remove your old timing chain if you need to.

Place the new chain over the crank snout and let it droop down like before. Leave the oil pump off the car for now.

End of optional section This step is one of the KEY parts of the install. If you mess this part up, you risk major engine damage once you try to start the car up later on.

However, we'll verify everything is right before we go further, so don't worry too much. The goal here is to get the cam gear back onto the front of the cam, with the chain in place.

That part is easy enough, the hard part is getting the dots lined up. There is one dot on the face of the cam gear, and one dot on the front of the crank gear behind the oil pump.

Thread your old crankshaft bolt back into the crank and with a wrench, turn the crankshaft until you see the small black dot pointing straight up.

See picture on the left for reference. Next, in your hand, orient cam gear so dot is on bottom and hold it up to the front of the cam That is where the cam alignment dowel goes in.

Spin camshaft by hand so dowel looks like it'll line up with cam gear properly to align the dots. Put the timing chain on the crank gear, and then put it on the cam gear, holding the cam gear up with your hand to keep tension on the chain.

Carefully try to get the camgear to seat on the front of the cam. If you don't get the hole and the dowel aligned just right, you're just going to push the cam back into the block.

If you are having trouble aligning it, try threading a cam bolt through the gear into the cam to grab it and line it up like that. Most likely you are going to have to keep moving the chain on the cam gear until you get the dots lined up just perfect, and you'll have to get lucky and have the cam oriented just perfect so the gear seats on like it should.

If all this sounds complicated, just look at the picture on the left and make yours look exactly like that. Don't get mad if this part takes minutes of trying until it all looks correct.

Once it's all together, make If it looks off a little bit, turn the crankshaft by hand again to see if the 2 dots do indeed line up when they are straight up and down If you removed your oil pump in the previous step, you'll need to do this to reinstall it Find your oil pump pickup tube O-ring, it may be brown or blue in color.

It will either be inside the opening of your stock oil pump, or it'll still be on the snout of the pickup tube. If it was inside the oil pump, remove it and place it on the snout of the pickup tube If you bought a new oil pump, get it out now and place your old pump aside.

Now, push the pickup tube downwards with one hand, and with the other, try to line up the gear on the oil pump with the gear on the crankshaft and push it on.

Again, this may take a few minutes to get the gears all lined up. Once the pump slides on, rotate it a little and try to line up the snout so it'll slip into the oil pump nice and centered.

If you try to insert it off center, you run the risk of chewing up the o-ring which will mean you have very little oil pressure and have to tear all this apart to get back in here to replace it.

You don't want that, so make sure you insert the pickup tube nice and centered. It shouldn't take much force at all to push it in.

Now, retighten up the oil pan bolts. End of optional section Part 3: Changing the springs Time To Complete: Before we get started, I want to show you the parts that we'll be dealing with.

The most obvious part is the valve spring. Under the valve spring is a metal "spring seat". The seat sits on the head, and the spring sits on the seat.

The valve stem goes straight up through the center of the spring and at the end of the valve stem is a hat. The hat is called a "retainer", and it is locked into place using 2 pieces of curved metal called "locks".

Now, on and later LS1's, integrated with the seat is the valve seal On LS1's, the valve seal is a separate piece that must be removed to get the seat off.

If you are not replacing spring seats most setups will not require this , then you do not need to worry about seals or seats so you can skip those steps below.

Okay, let's get to work. The first thing we need to do is remove all 8 spark plugs. Sometimes a 1 inch extension is handy, but for the most part no other fancy adapters are needed.

Now that the plugs are removed, we need to figure out a way to keep our valves from falling into the cylinder, since when we remove the spring and retainer NOTHING but friction will be holding the valve up.

If it falls, it could spell disaster. There are a few options for this, but I'll detail the 2 I like to use. Option 1 Use an air compressor and spark plug fitting to pressurize the cylinder This is probably the easiest method if you have an air compressor.

It will require you to get a special air hose fitting that lets you screw into the spark plug hole. These come in many of the leakdown testing kits as well as a cylinder pressure testing kit.

All you need to do is remove the schrader valve in one end of the hose, screw it in, and hook the other end up to an air supply set at around psi.

Once the cylinder is full of compressed air, the 2 valves for that cylinder will be locked up in place. Option 2 Top dead center method This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston.

When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all. There are several ways to accomplish this: You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.

B This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier.

At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below.

After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7: Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed.

Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed.

You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2. Now that the valve won't be falling down into the cylinder, we can compress the spring.

Spring compressors come in so many shapes and sizes it's impossible to list them all. Use this tool at your own risk!

The tool from Scoggins Dickey will not fit on the back two cylinders on the passenger's side, but the other 6 cylinders work fine.

For the back two, the MORE tool does the job great. Install whatever spring compressor you chose, and start compressing the spring.

Now, if the VALVE stem is moving down with the retainer, you may need to tap the retainer lightly with a hammer to pop the valve out of the retainer sometimes they are sort of wedged in there really good.

Once you've got the spring compressed enough, the 2 metal locks should be just sitting in there next to the valve stem. Using a magnet, you should be able to easily remove these locks.

If they are still stuck in there, you may need to compress the spring a little more. The locks are removed, so literally the only thing holding the spring down now is the compressor.

Unbolt the spring compressor and remove it. You can now pull off the spring and retainer! If you have a or earlier, the oil seal will be a small black or brown thimble shaped thing, and you can now remove the stock spring seat using a pen magnet is easiest to pick it up.

Now that you've got the old seal and seat removed, place your new seat down until it's flush on the head surface.

The seal for the intake is black, and the seal for the exhaust is brown. Before you install the seal, smear some motor oil onto the valve stem and onto the black valve guide.

Place the seal onto the top of the valve guide, take a deep 12 point 10mm or 12mm socket and put it over the valve so that it's up against the valve seal, and tap it with a hammer until it seats solidly.

There will be a gap between the seal and the seat, that is okay! End of optional section Now, toss your new spring onto the seat and place a retainer new if you got them, otherwise reuse the stock ones as long as the springs accept them on top of the spring.

You don't want to snag the retainer on the valve stem while you are compressing the spring. Now put the locks in. If you are using a tool where you have to manually compress the spring by hand as you are installing the locks, it may help to put a dab of grease in the inside of each lock It's a handy trick if the you are having issues getting the locks in.

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